One of the best travel destinations in the Eastern Province is Trincomalee. It is an area blessed with history, culture and resplendent natural beauty. It has one of the best beaches in the island, which is easily accessible. On a recent assignment, I took some time to explore a few of the ancient sites of Trincomalee.
The Koneshwaram Hindu Kovil is the most visited shrine in this province. The kovil boasts of an ancient era dating back to the 12th century. The edifice was originally built on the Swami Rock overlooking the ocean. According to local legend there was a turbulent storm which caused the waves to rise and crash on the rocks. Exposed to the battering of the violent waves the kovil is said to have been dislodged and drawn into the sea. This was a terrible blow to the devotees at that time.
As the years went by a kovil was built on the site for a second time, with greater effort. The resilient devotees were pleased at the outcome of their new kovil. Decades later the Portuguese invaders came ashore. They are said to have come and attacked the temple, firing upon it with their cannons. Once again it was a time of sorrow for the people who worshipped here.
Later the Dutch built Fort Fredrick in 1665. The Fort is intact and we can see some of the old buildings. One has to take a long walk uphill from the Fort entrance to reach the kovil. The present day kovil was refurbished and consolidated 22 years ago.
The kovil and adjacent cliffs offer a panoramic view of the ocean. There is an old legend that a young British girl, who was rejected by her lover decided to jump from this jagged cliff into the sea. One of the interesting statues is that of a cow, the goddess manifesting as Nandi. This large rock statue carved according to Chola design was said to have been buried by the devotees, during the raid of the Portuguese. On January 22, 2013 some construction workers were digging a site when this large statue surfaced from the ground, causing much alarm. The statue was cleaned and enshrined at the present kovil. Along the right side of the Koneshwaram Kovil many young women come and make vows desiring safe pregnancy and their requests written on paper are tied in colourful ribbons. Some young boys were having fun feeding the monkeys with gram. The monkeys have been here for decades.
British War Cemetery
A graveyard visit is not on anyone’s travel itinerary! Yet there is a historical cemetery on Stephens Road, which is the final resting place of many British soldiers, sailors and airmen. It is a short drive from the main town. The place is well maintained and resembles a botanical garden. There are columns of white marble grave stones with the insignia of the Royal Navy, Royal Air Force and regiments of the Royal Ceylon Infantry and Artillery. Each stone commemorates a young man, who served Ceylon and died. As I walked through these rows of marble it was shocking to see almost 75% of the men who died were aged between 19 to 28 years, during World War 2. A massive marble cross with a steel sword embedded inside, rises majestically like a silent sentinel watching over these young departed Englishmen. As I came out I stumbled upon a middle aged vendor selling an exotic drink - fresh king coconut mixed with lime and loaded with ice, a most welcome delight.
Facets of British history
To university students majoring in history, a visit to the Hoods Tower Museum and Fort Ostenburg is a must. This facility is administered by the navy. I was fortunate to walk along some parts of the large 800 acre naval complex with prior permission. Amidst the thick foliage I spotted some monkeys. You can still witness lovely old buildings and road names from the colonial era. The wood work on the windows and doors still remain intact. White picket fences add to the colonial charm. Street signs display names such as Peyton Avenue, Vernon Road and Drummond Hill Road. The signs are unique as they are set in a cement block and the alphabets carved in cement, have remained for almost 200 years! A belfry (tower) made in 1821 is still standing with clock in working condition, adjacent to a naval guard room where the Quarter Master keeps a watchful eye. A few feet away are the first traffic light signal in Ceylon, installed by the British.
Amazingly due to good naval engineering maintenance the lights still operate. A herd of deer passes by. The gentle animals are used to humans and they remain calm. You can also do a boat ride and see the cluster of small islands. These are some interesting places young folk must visit, when in Trincomalee.
It requires a genuine desire for history, appreciation of nature, a passion for the ocean and strong leg muscles.